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Hey, if you’ve got a pool or spa in Fort Myers, you’ve probably stared at the equipment pad wondering why the breaker trips every time the jets kick on, or if that old outlet by the lanai is really safe for the new heater. We field these questions daily at Coharbor Electric—folks calling from Sanibel condos, Cape Coral backyards, even a few yacht club docks. Pools and spas pull serious power, and down here with the salt air and storms, one loose connection can turn paradise into a headache. We’ve wired and fixed hundreds, so we’ve boiled it all down to the FAQs we hear most. No fluff, just straight answers from boots-on-the-ground experience. Whether you’re DIY-curious or hunting for electricians near me in Fort Myers, this’ll clear the fog. Let’s dive in.
Ever notice how pool gear seems to have its own rulebook? It’s NEC Article 680 all the way—Florida Building Code adopts it wholesale, with Lee County inspectors eyeballing every detail. But the real world adds humidity, lightning, and that sandy soil shifting under your pad. We’ll hit the big ones, toss in a story or two, and keep it practical.
Short answer: Yes, pretty much everything. NEC 680.5 says any 125V through 250V receptacle within 20 feet of the water’s edge gets GFCI. That includes the pump plug, heater disconnect, even the light switch if it’s close. Hardwired stuff like the circulation pump? The breaker itself must be GFCI—or a dedicated device on the line.
We’ve swapped countless old non-GFCI breakers on retrofits. One client in Iona thought his 1995 setup was grandfathered—until the inspector red-tagged it during a spa add-on. Cost him an extra weekend, but now it’s bulletproof. Pro tip: Self-testing GFCIs are worth the upcharge; they beep if they fail, saving midnight swims in the dark.
And spas? Same rules, tighter space. Indoor hot tubs over 15 feet from outlets can skip receptacle GFCI, but the feeder still needs it if over 15V.
Bonding isn’t grounding—it’s tying every metal bit (ladders, rails, pump housings, even rebar in the deck) to an equipotential grid so voltage can’t build differences and zap you. NEC 680.26 demands #8 solid copper minimum, looped around the perimeter and connected to the pump motor.
We test every bond at final inspection—under 0.1 ohm or we redo it. One time, we chased a “tingly water” complaint in a Whiskey Creek pool. Turned out the dive board was bonded with a flimsy clamp—salt air ate it in two years. Replaced with stainless, problem gone. Spas need it too, especially portable ones; bond the frame to the equipment ground.
Skip bonding? Stray voltage from a nick in the pump wire turns the water into a conductor. We’ve felt that faint buzz—feels like a 9-volt battery on your tongue. Not fun.
Receptacles: At least 6 feet from the inside wall for pools (10 feet for spas if under 5 feet deep). But nothing between 6 and 10 feet unless it’s a dedicated appliance like a cleaner. Over 10 feet? Standard rules apply, but we still GFCI ’em in wet locations.
We’ve moved outlets during renos—folks love that lanai blender, but code says no closer. One Estero client had a GFCI outlet 5.5 feet away—inspector measured with a tape, failed it on the spot. Shifted it 8 inches, passed next morning.
Lights and switches? 5 feet minimum above water level, or GFCI protected if lower.
Technically yes if sized for the total load, but we never do it. Pumps cycle, heaters pull steady—sharing means nuisance trips when both fire up. Plus, separate circuits make troubleshooting a breeze. NEC 680.12 says disconnects within sight, so dedicated breakers keep it clean.
We remember a Bonita Springs combo setup: 30A pump + 50A heater on one 60A feeder. Worked until the variable-speed upgrade—now the heater starved on startup. Split ’em, added a subpanel, happy ever since. Lesson? Future-proof with extras.
Portable spas (under 120V or cord-connected) need GFCI at the plug. Hardwired? 50A minimum, #6 copper, GFCI breaker. Indoor tubs follow dwelling rules but still bond the motor. Outdoor? Full pool treatment—20-foot GFCI zone, bonding grid.
We’ve installed dozens of plug-and-play tubs. Big gotcha: The factory cord is often 3 feet—clients want it across the deck. Extension? Nope—direct bury or conduit only. One Lehigh Acres job, we trenched 25 feet of UF cable—client plugged in, jets roaring, no trips.
And disconnect: Within 5 feet, line of sight, no climbing over the tub.
Nuisance trips scream water intrusion. Check seals on the pump motor, junction boxes, even the breaker panel if it’s outdoor. Salt air accelerates corrosion—green fuzz on terminals acts like a fault.
We carry silicone tape and heat-shrink for quick seals. One Sanibel condo after a squall: Every GFCI on the pad popped. Traced to a cracked conduit elbow—rain ran straight in. Sealed with mastic, dried the boxes, good as new. Pro move: Elevate pads 6 inches on blocks in flood-prone spots.
Start with load: Pump 12A, heater 45A, lights 5A—total 62A continuous? 125% = 77.5A feeder. Then voltage drop: Over 100 feet, upsize for under 3%. #4 copper often works; aluminum needs #2.
We’ve crunched these on waterfront lots—200 feet to the dock spa. #2/0 aluminum, derated for heat, buried in PVC. No sag, even with the blower on high.
Use Chapter 9 Table 8 for resistance—apps help, but we verify with a clamp meter under load.
True tale from a gated community off McGregor. New spa install, everything passed inspection. First fill, the homeowner dips a foot in and feels a weird buzz—like static but wet. No one else noticed at first. We rushed over, tested bonds: Ladder clamp loose, 2.5 ohms to pump. Tightened, retested under 0.05 ohms. Sensation gone; owners relaxed back into the bubbles.
Moral: Test under real conditions—water changes everything.
Only if ampacity allows—check the breaker rating and wire size. Most pool pumps are on 20A; adding underwater lights (3-5A each) pushes it. Better: Dedicated circuit.
We’ve added LED niches to old setups—swapped halogens, dropped amps 80%, stayed on the same breaker. Win-win.
Under 15V (like 12V transformers) skips GFCI on the low side, but the 120V feed needs it. Wet-niche fixtures must be listed for pools.
We convert old 120V incandescents to LED low-voltage—safer, brighter, cheaper to run. One Cape client cut light bill $40/month.
Always for new installs or major changes—heater swaps, subpanels, bonding upgrades. Lee County wants one-line diagrams, load calcs, GFCI specs. Minor repairs? No, but we document anyway.
We’ve pulled hundreds—schedule rough-in early; final after fill but before party.
Call at 11 p.m.: Pool lights out, spa dead, house fine. Rolled out, found the GFCI in the garage attic—tripped from a mouse-chewed neutral. Reset, taped, done by midnight. Client left the porch light on and a six-pack. Small jobs, big thanks.
Dedicated circuit for pool pump? Yes—minimum 15A for 120V, 20A for 240V. No sharing with house loads.
Can I use extension cords for spa accessories? Never for permanent—temporary only, GFCI protected, heavy gauge.
Bonding wire size for spa? #8 copper minimum, even for portable—clamp to frame.
GFCI for underwater vacuum? Yes if plugged in—cord must have built-in or at receptacle.
Surge protection for pool panel? Worth it—$200 saves $2K boards. We add on every job.
Timer vs. automation for circuits? Automation wins—schedules, freeze protect, app control.
Aluminum wire okay for feeders? Yes with AL/CU lugs, inhibitor, upsize one gauge.
How often test GFCI? Monthly—push test, hear click, reset works.
Spa on balcony—special rules? Same as ground, plus structural load for weight.
Pool and spa circuits in Fort Myers aren’t rocket science, but get one detail wrong—distance, bond, GFCI—and you’re chasing trips instead of cannonballs. We’ve wired ’em from scratch and saved ’em from storms; it all boils down to code plus local smarts. Keep it dedicated, protected, and bonded tight, and your oasis stays safe and splash-ready year-round.
Got questions on pool & spa circuits in Fort Myers, FL? Contact Coharbor Electric—your local experts in safe, code-compliant wiring. Get a free consultation and quote at coharborelectric.com. Power your paradise without the problems!
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