Running Conduit to Detached Garages for EVs in Fort Myers Homes | CoHarbor Electric

Running Conduit to Detached Garages for EVs in Fort Myers Homes

We’ve been seeing this one more and more lately — homeowners in Fort Myers calling us up, saying something like, “Hey, I just bought an electric car, but my garage’s out back. Can you run power out there for a charger?”

It’s a simple question, but the work behind it can range from “easy half-day job” to “full-blown trenching project,” depending on how the property’s laid out. Detached garages are common in older Fort Myers neighborhoods like McGregor and Whiskey Creek, and back when they were built, nobody was thinking about powering an electric car.

Now we are. And running conduit the right way — safely, cleanly, and to code — makes all the difference between a reliable setup and a potential headache later.

So, here’s how we handle it, step by step, the way we’d explain it standing right there in the driveway with you.

Step 1: Figure Out What You’re Powering

Before we even talk about conduit size or breaker panels, we’ve got to know what you’re actually running out there.

Some homeowners just want a Level 2 EV charger. Others want lights, outlets, or even a mini-split AC in the detached garage. The total power demand determines how we size everything — the wire, the conduit, and the circuit protection.

A single Level 2 charger typically needs a 240-volt, 40–60 amp circuit. That’s plenty for most home EV setups. But if you’re also running lights, tools, or a refrigerator out there, we’ll probably install a subpanel instead of a single circuit.

That subpanel gives you flexibility later on — maybe you’ll add another charger, some shop equipment, or solar down the line.

We always plan ahead when running conduit because digging twice is nobody’s idea of fun.

Step 2: Check the Path from the House to the Garage

This is where every job gets unique.

In Fort Myers, most detached garages sit 30–60 feet from the main house, often separated by a driveway, walkway, or patch of grass. Some are slab-on-grade, others are block or metal structures.

We’ll walk the property with you and figure out the cleanest, safest path for the conduit. Most of the time, we’ve got three options:

1. Underground trenching – the most common and neatest method. We dig a narrow trench, usually 18–24 inches deep, and run PVC conduit rated for burial. Once the conduit’s glued, sealed, and inspected, we pull in the wire and backfill the trench.

2. Overhead run – sometimes the only option if the garage’s across a paved driveway. We run weather-rated conduit up the side of the house, across on a tensioned messenger cable, and down to the garage. Looks a little industrial but works great when trenching isn’t possible.

3. Through conduit under concrete – if you’re lucky enough to have a conduit sleeve under a driveway already (common in newer builds), we can use that and save you the dig.

Every property’s a little different. We don’t force one-size-fits-all solutions — we find what works best for your layout and budget.

Step 3: Sizing the Conduit and Wire

Now we get into the details.

For a standard 50-amp EV circuit, we use 6-gauge copper wire in 1-inch PVC conduit. If we’re installing a subpanel or multiple circuits, we’ll bump that up to 4-gauge copper in a larger conduit size — sometimes 1¼ or 1½ inches, depending on the distance and number of wires.

We always run THWN-2 rated wire (thermoplastic heat- and water-resistant). It’s built for underground and Florida humidity — doesn’t corrode, doesn’t degrade in the heat.

And here’s the thing: we never use aluminum wire outdoors in this climate. It just doesn’t hold up. We’ve seen too many corroded aluminum terminations fail after a few years. Copper costs more, but it’s the right call for long-term reliability.

Step 4: Grounding and Safety

Detached structures need proper grounding. Period.

We always drive ground rods at the garage location and bond them to the new circuit or subpanel. That way, if there’s ever a fault, the system trips cleanly and doesn’t send stray current through the ground.

Every connection’s torqued to spec, every junction box sealed tight. Fort Myers humidity, salt air, and storms can find their way into anything that’s not weather-rated, so we go the extra mile with waterproof fittings and tight PVC cement joints.

If the run’s exposed outdoors, we use Schedule 80 PVC (thicker wall) to handle sun and physical impact. Schedule 40 is fine underground, but anywhere visible or vulnerable, we upsize it.

Step 5: Permits and Inspections

Some homeowners are surprised to learn that EV conduit runs — even to detached garages — require permits in Lee County. But they do, and for good reason.

We handle all of it for you:

• Electrical permit application

• Load calculation (to show your panel can handle it)

• Underground conduit inspection before backfill

• Final inspection once the system’s wired and live

It’s not just red tape — it’s peace of mind that the work’s done to code and your insurance company’s happy.

Real Job Example: Fort Myers Mid-Century Home

We recently did a project for a homeowner off McGregor who’d converted their old detached garage into a workshop. They bought a Ford Lightning and wanted a 48-amp Level 2 charger installed out there.

The problem? The garage was 55 feet from the house, separated by a paver driveway. No existing conduit.

We gave them two options: trench through the grass and edge along the pavers, or run overhead. They chose trenching.

We used a 24-inch-deep PVC run, 6-gauge copper wire, and added a small subpanel in the garage to feed both the EV charger and the existing lighting. We installed a whole-home surge protector in the main panel while we were at it — always a good idea with Florida storms.

The whole job took about two days start to finish, including inspection. Clean, quiet, and ready for the future.

Cost Range for Detached Garage Runs

Every property’s different, but here’s what we typically see:

• Short runs (under 30 ft): $1,200–$1,800

• Medium runs (30–60 ft): $2,000–$3,000

• Long runs or subpanel setups: $3,000–$4,500+

It all depends on distance, trenching conditions, and the size of wire needed. We always give an upfront quote — no surprises halfway through the job.

Common Mistakes We See

We’ve had to fix plenty of DIY or handyman installs over the years. Here are the big ones:

• Undersized wire: too small for the load, overheats fast.

• Wrong conduit depth: less than 18 inches underground is a code violation.

• No grounding: detached garages must be properly bonded.

• Indoor-rated boxes outside: rusts out in a year or two.

• No permit: leads to insurance issues later.

If you’re going to do it, do it once — and do it right.

Wrapping It Up

Running conduit to a detached garage for EV charging isn’t complicated when it’s planned right. It’s just a matter of balancing power, safety, and practicality.

We’ve done dozens of these around Fort Myers — from older homes with narrow driveways to new builds with finished landscapes. Every one gets the same careful planning, sealed conduit, and clean finish.

When it’s done right, you don’t have to think about it again. The charger works every time, rain or shine.

👉 Call Coharbor Electric today to schedule your EV charging inspection or installation. We’ll check your panel, map your conduit run, and design a safe, code-compliant system that fits your property perfectly.

We make it simple, safe, and ready for whatever’s next — no shortcuts, no guessing, just solid work that lasts.